tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9154371948201458232024-03-13T18:24:26.444-04:00kr2pilotMatthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12459213027433182592noreply@blogger.comBlogger56125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-915437194820145823.post-39152874853296899912018-10-10T21:44:00.000-04:002018-10-21T17:20:16.569-04:00Prop Flange Extension<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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This will be a quick post - as part of my power plant setup, I'll be using a 4" aluminum spacer to help streamline my cowl around the engine. At my place of employment, I've got access to a CNC mill and a larger metal lathe, among other things. I was able to pick up a 5" diameter 6" long piece of 6061 aluminum for about $40 on Ebay, modeled what I wanted in CAD, then went to the manual lathe to turn it. I should have taken more pictures, but I didn't think about it; I do a fair amount of machining at work, and it all feels pretty routine anymore. The first picture I have is after I turned the stock down to final inside and outside dimensions, except for the face that will abut the flywheel. I set it up on a rotary table on the mill to get a bit more precision with the 6 prop-mounting holes, but that was probably overkill.<br />
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Spot drill, undersize drill, final drill, chamfer the edges. Not exactly rocket science. I intentionally left about an extra half inch on the end that I chucked up for the majority of the turning work, so that the marks left by the chuck wouldn't be on the final part. When I reversed it to turn the remaining face, I used some orange .050" plastic shim stock between the jaws and the part to avoid marring the finished surface. Turning the remaining face was straightforward, though I took light cuts to make sure I wouldn't pull the part out of the chuck. </div>
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After the final lathe operation, I drilled the other 6 holes and cleaned up the part. Nothing left to do but put it away until the engine is ready to run... except test fit it on the flywheel.</div>
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<br />Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12459213027433182592noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-915437194820145823.post-59821102932122698442018-10-07T11:35:00.005-04:002018-10-07T11:36:28.325-04:00More Wood!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Ok, so I got the necessary braces installed. I also set up the seat well enough to take some measurements with a laser level simulating the horizon from my height when seated, and used that to generate templates for the canopy. However, in the meantime, there were a few more pieces of woodworking to attend to. The first is that, because of the way the fuselage is built, the plywood that stretches over the crossmembers behind the seat doesn't have a good way to glue to the longhorns.</div>
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The solution the previous builder used was to glue on more spruce to build the sides up to level, and it makes sense to me. So I went ahead and did the same. First I shaped some pieces of wood to follow the contours of the plane:<br />
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Then I glued them on, came back a day later, and started planing. I had to build up the center crossmember as well, because of the compound "dip" in the fuselage (Only needed about .02" or so, but it was easier to glue on a much thicker piece and plane it down later.) I used a hand plane held at an angle, so that the center x-member was being cut while the plane used the forward and rear x-members to set the height. Once the x-members were all co-planar, I planed the sides to match.</div>
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I didn't get a picture of the finished product, apparently. I was about ready to glue the plywood on, when I realized I'd want all of the gussets in place first; they'd be hard to add later! So I spent some time sanding tiny wood blocks to the right compound angles. It's not very difficult, but it was a little time consuming. I ended up needing 12; I was able to finish and glue 9 before I ran out of time.<br />
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The next time I was down, I finished making the gussets I needed and glued them overnight.<br />
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After everything had time to set, I planed and sanded everything down and cut the plywood to fit. This is pretty thin stuff, and I've found that by using a utility knife to cut through it, I can usually avoid sanding it except to break the sharp edges.<br />
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After several passes with the knife, it usually only needs a touch with sandpaper to get the edges smooth, and as long as you marked it right, it's bound to fit. All that was left was to glue it all together and clamp it down.<br />
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Next time I'm down, I'll pull the clamps off and start re-working the fiberglass seat backs. They need to be trimmed a little bit in order to fit the new angle. I'll probably cut the holes for the control sticks too, which will allow me to install those again and start fiddling with their location. I'm gearing up for all of the non-fiberglass things, since winter is almost upon us here. I've been working on designing a prop in CAD, as well as a control stick grip. Unfortunately, it looks like the canopy/aft deck/front deck is going to have to wait another winter... at least I have a plan for that now.Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12459213027433182592noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-915437194820145823.post-61007489839247723402018-08-15T23:33:00.000-04:002018-08-20T20:01:51.352-04:00Whoops... This is a new problem!Ok, ok, it's not really a problem... at least, it's not a mistake or a roadblock or a money pit kind of problem. The last few weeks have been pretty good - I finished assembling my heads,<br />
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made a plate for bolting the cylinders on to check deck height for each piston/cylinder set,<br />
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(btw, this gave me wacky results - I had to remake the plate to cover *both* cylinders at once, the same way the head will when the engine is assembled)<br />
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(Again, not like this.) and then made a new two-cylinder capturing plate and measured deck height at final torque.<br />
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Deck heights were all pretty darn close - I had a spread of 0.1997", 0.122", 0.1225", 0.125". Because I have a lathe handy, I was planning on chucking up the pistons and dusting them all perfect - but after doing the math, I realized that by arranging the heads correctly, my compression ratio would range from 7.976:1 to 8.021:1. In other words, a maximum difference of 0.045:1......... I think that's close enough!<br />
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I went ahead and painted the cylinder numbers on the case according to convention, and then marked the cylinders and pistons accordingly.<br />
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Since I wanted the heads on certain sides, I went ahead and marked them as well.<br />
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The last thing I have to do on the engine for now is bag everything up - each head will get a bag, each piston/cylinder will get a bag, and the block will get a bag. I don't want to have to carry the assembled engine up out of the basement when we move in a few months, so I'll just leave it in pieces until it's in a shop that's on the ground floor. After that, I'll assemble it and bag it again, until I need to take more measurements off it or am ready to attach it to an airplane. So what's the problem, you ask? Well, this engine has been about the only thing I can do related to my plane right now. Every couple weeks we travel to see the rest of my family, and I can sneak away for a few hours to work on the plane when we're there, but otherwise it's just me and the engine. Now that I'm mostly done with that, I'm not sure how I'll keep making progress... and if I'm not making progress, I'll drive my wife over the edge. :)Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12459213027433182592noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-915437194820145823.post-69031557318399487452018-07-26T00:46:00.000-04:002018-07-26T00:47:36.224-04:00Getting Ahead<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I was so excited to get past this hurdle - heads are finally (almost) in shape. I figured the best way to CC my heads was to install the valves and valve springs - turns out I was wrong*, but that's how I did it to start. Got them in pretty easy, once I figured out the tool:</div>
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I'm really, really opposed to buying single-purpose tools. However, there's <i>really</i> no way around this one - it was either this or some kind of press with a few hokey jigs, and I didn't have space for that nonsense.</div>
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Once I got the valves installed, I started prepping for the CC measurement process:</div>
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Ok, the first step is always to get the heads level. I figured the easiest way to do that was to set up the heads, then add shims until they were level. This turned out to be a huge project, because even with the heads just about perfect, air bubbles would still show up *not* directly under the hole in the plexiglas. So I'd have to start tipping the head, and by the time I got the bubbles where I needed them, the shims would have walked out of position and now the head isn't level anymore, and the bubbles zip off to some corner of the chamber. I spent more time re-stacking shims than I did on any other part of this project!<br />
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I failed to take pictures of the entire CC process - call me impatient, I just didn't want to stop what I was doing and get my camera out. I went through the process at least 3 times for each chamber, then averaged my results - which wasn't hard, considering my syringe only had 1cc graduations. I was still able to guesstimate quarter-cc accuracy though.<br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0BoOzyTT21Q/W1kdvf3KTPI/AAAAAAAAA3M/KlCo7QVbtjQUHN8WxUPBAEN0ENmcZ2XeQCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_3083.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0BoOzyTT21Q/W1kdvf3KTPI/AAAAAAAAA3M/KlCo7QVbtjQUHN8WxUPBAEN0ENmcZ2XeQCEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_3083.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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Final volumes were 56cc, 56cc, 56cc, and 55cc. I'm still not sure about the last one - but it was consistent, all three measurements showed 55cc on the dot. That was easy enough to fix with a rotary tool and a cutter, followed by a sanding drum to smooth away chatter marks. Now I've got about a quarter cc spread between all four chambers, which is definitely good enough for a VW.</div>
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I cleaned the heads and valves really well to make sure no shavings or abrasives remained, and then put them away for now. I need to measure the valve spring forces, but after that I can reassemble the heads and bag them for now.</div>
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Aside from matching all the chamber volumes, CCing the heads gives me the last unknown for my compression ratio equation. I've got 94mm cylinders with a 78mm stroke; that's good for 541.2918 cubic centimeters. I've got 56 cc's in the heads, and I want a compression ratio (CR) of 8:1. CR is calculated by adding the volumes of the cylinder, head, and deck height, and then dividing by the sum of the head and deck height. When I go through all that, I get a necessary deck height of 3.06mm, or about 0.120". Back in <a href="http://kr2pilot.blogspot.com/2017/08/fit-so-nice-i-made-it-twice.html" target="_blank">an earlier post,</a> I made mention that with the cylinder shims that were on the engine, the deck height was 0.114"..... which is pretty close to what I want. I can add .01" by going with the next size up shim; if I felt really crazy, I could chuck up the cylinders and turn them down .004" to get exactly what I'm after. However, I'm so close to final assembly of all of these components, I don't want to risk damaging something - and I think being off a tenth on my CR is probably ok; the math I'm finding looks like I'd be splitting hairs over less than half a percent of my power.</div>
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*The easiest way to do it is smear just a little grease on the valves and on the valve seats, then push the valves in and give them a little turn to hold them in place. No leaks this way.</div>
Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12459213027433182592noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-915437194820145823.post-86304142375395579072018-07-05T20:58:00.000-04:002018-07-05T20:58:20.483-04:00Head GamesI walnut blasted my heads a few months ago, and I didn't oil the valve seats well enough to keep them from corroding a little. Nothing major, but enough that I needed to do more than lap the valves in. What follows is a good example of wasted time, wasted money, and a whole lot of frustration. In short, if you're looking to do valve seat work, skip the next two miserable paragraphs.<br />
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I looked into getting a valve seat grinding setup, and wow, are they pricey! So I found a site that sells just the stones for about $14 bucks apiece and set about making my own self-centering stone holder. I cut the head off of an old exhaust valve to use as a pilot, drilled a hole in a chunk of aluminum, which I then heated up with a propane torch and dropped the aluminum onto the exhaust valve/pilot. After it cooled, I used a collet to hold the assembly in the lathe and turned threads on the aluminum portion to match the grinding stones I'd purchased. I then took the 45° stone for the intake seat, screwed it onto my new tool, and placed the tool back in the collet, set up my top slide to the right angle, and used a diamond-tipped dressing tool to grind the stone perfectly concentric. I wanted to make sure I didn't impart any weird tilt to the tool while I was using my drill to spin it, so I pushed a piece of 1/4" fuel line over the end of the tool and connected the other end to the drill. This seemed to work ok, except that the rubber hose allowed the tool to vibrate and caused some chatter unless I was careful not to apply very much pressure.<br />
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I worked through all three stones, re-angling them with a diamond stone on the lathe between valve seats to make sure the angle stayed true. Once I got to the 45s, I started checking the seat width. It wasn't until then that I realized I was grinding non-concentric valves. Whoops. I took a break to do some research, and came across a company called Neway. It took me some time to build up the nerve to pay for the tooling needed, but in the end I caved and picked up the stuff. After cutting a couple of the seats, I can say with confidence that was the right decision. Here's a picture of a valve seat that's had the 15 and 75 degree angles cut in it with their cutters.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-J4YLXqXgAGo/WzhFWaAQV8I/AAAAAAAAA1k/Xky4PFa5IB4j99ji1nAXaBtG3qoHW6cggCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_3042.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-J4YLXqXgAGo/WzhFWaAQV8I/AAAAAAAAA1k/Xky4PFa5IB4j99ji1nAXaBtG3qoHW6cggCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_3042.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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It's a little tough to see, but the red line is what hasn't yet been touched. At its thickest, it's about .053, and at it's thinnest, it's around .018. That's pretty bad! The good news is, with the Neway system, I've been able to recut the seats concentric with the valve guides, and I'll be moving on to CCing the heads shortly.<br />
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This is what all of my valve seats look like now:<br />
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That's an exhaust valve seat, so the width is about .01" wider than the intake seats. They all look a lot more concentric now, though, so it's time to put new Dykem on the valves and seats and try to fit them together. I wanted to check for even contact between all the valves and seats, but I didn't want to remove any material. I decided to use toothpaste instead of lapping compound, because it's still abrasive enough to remove the Dykem but not enough to carve material away from the seats.</div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3CdQGBS5jR8/Wz67vGVd_UI/AAAAAAAAA2Y/v8KPsgHc7U4mO02QghBWUwOjK97BwEzZACEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_3060.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WvDh_u8g-m0/Wz67wJ09iaI/AAAAAAAAA2Y/6eoV625Z_toRQ5bZJMfRNZ8fmogG_VBqgCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_3061.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WvDh_u8g-m0/Wz67wJ09iaI/AAAAAAAAA2Y/6eoV625Z_toRQ5bZJMfRNZ8fmogG_VBqgCEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_3061.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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With all the valves and seats marked up, I put toothpaste around the contact area of the valves, placed them in their respective guides, applied a little pressure and rotated them 90 degrees back and forth a few times. I was really impressed; every single one of my seats showed clean, even lines around the entire 45 degree face, and every single one of my valves showed even contact around the mating surface. Consider me sold - Neway cutters are the way to go!<br />
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The last thing I did was clean up the toothpaste as best as I could and hose down the valves and seats with WD-40. Tomorrow I'll bring the heads to work and clean them up again in the parts washer, and then I can assemble the valves and springs into the heads for good.<br />
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<br />Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12459213027433182592noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-915437194820145823.post-59525338061349864442018-06-30T22:32:00.000-04:002018-06-30T22:32:06.229-04:00One step forward....Actually, no steps forward for a long time. It's been pretty quiet on here for a while now. I finished assembling the short block on the engine by adding the flywheel seal, oil pump, etc. and bagged the whole thing to keep humidity out while I worked on the heads. I took a break to work on some Christmas presents on the lathe, and then I broke the lathe, so that needed repair... after that I started trying to recondition the heads myself. I don't think that was a mistake; the way I went about it was a little less than ideal, which caused more problems than it solved. That's all for another post though; this weekend I'm back at the fuselage, and making some serious progress... backwards!<br />
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Two years ago, I received the canopy I ordered. There's a long story of assumptions, misinformation, betrayal, and pretty poor customer service, but the bottom line is I've spent the last two years trying to figure out if I can even use the canopy or if I need to buy another one. It's a Dragonfly canopy, but the folks who made it insisted on molding it out of thicker acrylic than the design calls for. As a result, it bends a lot less than I anticipated, and trying to force it to fit has been difficult. Along the way, I realized how uncomfortable the seat is, because of the angle the seat back rests at. All it needs is to lean a few inches back to be much better.<br />
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So the plan was to cut out and replace the existing crossmember and seat braces, leaving the plywood shelf in place.<br />
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Here I've got the line marked, and just in case the sides got any squirrelly ideas, I put a clamp around the old crossmember to keep the dimensions stable. I clamped a straightedge on my line and used a utility knife to score through the plywood. I removed a chunk from my new line forward to the old crossmember. </div>
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Looking good so far. The next step is to cut and fit the new crossmember and glue it in place. I just need to look underneath to mark the angles, and...</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BD2L5GmODA4/Wzg1AbsLLJI/AAAAAAAAA1E/8mmUNdN8RD0dei4TfQv1aJR0Znet5KTgQCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_3049.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BD2L5GmODA4/Wzg1AbsLLJI/AAAAAAAAA1E/8mmUNdN8RD0dei4TfQv1aJR0Znet5KTgQCEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_3049.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Whoops. There's an unexpected turn of events! The longeron doubler doesn't go quite as far as I thought it did. This just became a much bigger project.......</div>
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So I'll be replacing the plywood after all. I don't have any pieces that size left, but I can still cut the new crossmember and put it a little further forward. I had hoped to gain 3.5", but I ended up settling for 2.75". It didn't take long to fit the new member, which installed quite nicely.</div>
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With that in place, I cut out the old crossmember and seat supports, sanded and planed the remaining bits of wood away. </div>
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I cut and fit new seat members, glued them in place, and left them to cure. </div>
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This was enough for now. I'll still need to add all of the gusset blocks, but my goal this weekend was to get the plane to a point where I could sit inside and take measurements on total height required above my head as well as instrument panel height. I'll do that tomorrow when the glue's had more time to set up. Once I get those numbers I can finish the templates for the canopy frame, which I'l work on when I come back down in a few weeks. In the meantime, I'll keep working on the valve seats.</div>
Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12459213027433182592noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-915437194820145823.post-15500253058501428052017-10-21T20:24:00.002-04:002017-10-21T20:24:43.670-04:00No turning back now...<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Got my LocTite, and had a few free hours tonight, so I finished the crankshaft buildup by torquing the connecting rods to spec. Then I gooped up all of the head studs with Permatex Aviation 3H and installed those in the case halves. </div>
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I got everything covered in moly grease, dropped in the cam lifters, crankshaft, camshaft, cam plug, and stud seals, then put the case together and torqued everything down just as if I was sealing up the case for real. </div>
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I checked free rotation the whole way through, and man, is it nice and smooth. All the gears mesh up just fine, no weird noises or rough spots. With that, there was nothing left to do but tear it all down so I could add grease and sealer and put it back together one final time!</div>
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Got moly grease on the cam lifters, which in my case are hydraulic. Using moly on them really helped them stay in place; a big plus on aircooled VWs, since they want to fall out when you try to put the case halves together. Dropped in the crank and camshaft, then gooped up the cam plug with 3H and stuck that in its place. (Apparently this picture was actually before the cam plug was installed.)</div>
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Next came the excitement - spread 3H on the other case half, mate them together, and put all the nuts and bolts in.</div>
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I gave it one more free rotation check once everything was torqued and ready to leave, and sure enough - smooth as you please. I'm gonna have to find something else to complain about now that the crankshaft is doing what it's supposed to do. One final thing I did before I sealed the case up was check my end play at the flywheel. I've got three shims in between the first bearing and the crankshaft to act as a thrust bearing, and the remaining end play is shown below. I think I'm supposed to have it at around 0.005", but I'll have to check on that. I'll order a shim to put between the flywheel and the first bearing and call it good.</div>
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Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12459213027433182592noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-915437194820145823.post-66621552614627880892017-10-18T21:49:00.000-04:002017-10-18T21:49:24.586-04:00Crank Buildup... Again.<br />
So, when I said earlier that the case was "torqued to spec" and that the crankshaft "didn't bind...." Turns out I lied. I didn't have two nuts on... and it turns out that those two little nuts caused a big problem. Once I had *all* of the hardware on and torqued, the crankshaft stuck... pretty bad! I ended up doing a lot of digging, and it turns out that the piece that used to be the prop hub, which still provides a bearing surface, was the problem.<br />
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I started by trying different clocking orientations - pulling the hub, heating it up, rotating it slightly, and putting it back on - and I did find one position that was very close to perfect. However, it still had a sticking spot, and when I put a dial indicator on it, I could see why - while the hub was only out of concentric by about .0003, there was a single spot, like a lobe, that was more than a thousandth of an inch high. Now, I have a lathe, but I'm not confident enough in my abilities to do serious engine work. Nevertheless, I'm not willing to pay a machine shop another hundred to polish a single bearing surface into spec. </div>
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So I chucked the crank into the lathe and set up to knock the lobe down with some emery cloth held in my tool holder, so I could just hit the high spot.<br />
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Once I thought I'd gotten close, I used some medium and then fine emery cloth to get all of the tooling marks off. Then I pulled the whole thing off the lathe and assembled and torqued the engine to spec again.<br />
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..........??????!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!<br />
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Rotates freely. Smooth as can be. I was pretty excited! It's still got contact across the whole bearing, too, so I didn't just turn it down so far it doesn't touch anything. (To give you an idea, I think I took about half a thou off of the bearing before I started with the emery cloth... so really, very long process for a very small amount of material.)<br />
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I cleaned the crankshaft up, re-lubed the connecting rods, and started to assemble them. Unfortunately, I can't find my LocTite to save my life. I think I left it in PA when I used it on my landing gear.<br />
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Yes, the connecting rods are pointing in wrong directions - that's just so the nuts are easy to get to. I couldn't just leave it all like that, so I went ahead and worked on setting up the distributor assembly. Because of the type of distributor I have, I don't think the orientation of the distributor drive shaft matters in the least. However, just in case I'm wrong, I oriented everything the way the book says to, marked it with red dykem, and put a holding screw in place to keep the distributor aligned correctly. I've gotta get a couple of new screws for that, though... these two are looking pretty buggered up.<br />
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I intend to assemble the crankshaft, then install it and the camshaft into the case, along with the correct end play shims on the flywheel, torque the case to spec and check free rotation one more time before the final assembly. If it all checks out, then I'll install the lifters, cam plug, and whatever else I'm forgetting, then put sealant on the case and bolt it all up for good. There's still a lot left to do, but this feels like a big turning point in this whole process.</div>
Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12459213027433182592noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-915437194820145823.post-60863534655522251282017-10-16T22:12:00.002-04:002017-10-18T22:02:13.782-04:00Landing Gear (part 2)(Continued from <a href="http://kr2pilot.blogspot.com/2016/07/landing-gear-part-one.html" target="_blank">Landing Gear - Part One</a>)<br />
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My landing gear legs finally showed up, so I took advantage of the last of the warm weather to get some fiberglassing done. I was pretty excited, since the plane has been sitting on jack stands for quite some time now, and I'm always nervous about it falling off when I'm getting in and out to make airplane noises.<br />
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Once I had the gear planed to thickness and edges chamfered, (ScotchPly is really hard on planer blades!) I wrapped a couple of layers of bi-directional cloth infused with epoxy around them, as per the instructions. After that cured, I hot-glued a couple of straws to the backs as a housing for the brake lines.</div>
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I mixed up some really thick micro and filled in all around the straws to help the next layers of fiberglass lay smoother.</div>
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Once that cured, I sanded it all smooth and wrapped the next layers of fiberglass cloth and epoxy around the back. Nothing to it, really.<br />
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The next step was to use some more micro and just squeegee it over the sides of the leg, so I could sand them nice and smooth (without adding much extra weight.) I also used a high-speed rotary tool to open up holes to the straws and sanded everything smooth.</div>
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Before I got to the fiberglassing stage, I had gotten the brackets all drilled and prepped. Because of the shape of the brackets, I had to get a little creative with the hole placement for the axles.</div>
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The next step was a little scary - the geometry of the axles and landing gear is sort of important, and I only got one shot at drilling holes into the fiberglass legs. I took my time and re-verified a couple times, and I still ended up with one axle not quite pointing the right direction - but I can machine a nice aluminum shim to fix it, since it's off by only a couple degrees. </div>
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Once my holes were all drilled, I mixed up some flox, spread it on the brackets, and bolted the legs to the brackets for good.</div>
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While I waited for that to cure, I got my new rims and tires out, packed the bearings with grease, assembled them onto the axles, and the axles onto the brackets. It's starting to look serious now!<br />
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As soon as the epoxy showed the slightest indication of curing, I couldn't help but drag the whole assembly out to the garage and bolt it onto the plane. It's not a great picture, and there's a ton of crap in and around the plane, but it still looks a heck of a lot better with landing gear than it did on jack stands!</div>
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I haven't been idle with the engine - just frustrated, and lots of work for very slow progress. It was really good to get this out of the way, just to feel like i'm getting *something* done.</div>
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Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12459213027433182592noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-915437194820145823.post-68658148789853950382017-08-27T00:07:00.000-04:002017-08-27T00:07:26.480-04:00Fit so nice, I made it twice....Actually, it was the wrong material, so I kicked myself a few times and bought a new flywheel. This time, a *forged* flywheel, not a *cast* flywheel. Had I the sense to do more research ahead of time, I'd have only made it once. Nonetheless, the new version is around 300% *less* likely to break apart during flight.<br />
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That's version 2. Same dimensions, but machines a lot more like 4130 than the first one.</div>
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In this blurry picture I'm pointing out the locating step for the flexplate. That way I know it's concentric. I did the same on the inside for the prop extension:</div>
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Now that this is finished, I was able to start test assembling the crankcase. First, the connecting rods on the crankshaft:</div>
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Drop the crank assembly into the case and add some nuts, torqued to spec:</div>
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It still rotated freely after it was torqued, so that was a good sign. No rubbing or clearance issues so far. The next step was to add the head studs and check the piston deck height. I painted my head studs to help avoid corrosion:</div>
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And then I added them to the pile.</div>
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I added a cylinder and piston, and started taking measurements. I used a .030" shim under the cylinder, which is how the engine came to me. I set up my dial indicator and rotated the crank to TDC for that cylinder.</div>
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Zero'd up the dial indicator (though the photo makes it look off);</div>
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Using a piece of steel rod I had laying around as a straightedge, I measure deck clearance + rod width at 0.428" or so.</div>
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The rod I used measured 0.314", which means my clearance distance is 0.114". That's a lot more than I want! VW specs are between 0.040" and 0.080". I went back and checked, and the old pistons are the same as the new ones, and the old cylinders were within a couple thousandths of the new ones. That means that this engine was assembled wildly out of spec.... which shouldn't be a surprise, but it was. And means more work; removing the shims brings me down to 0.084", which is out of spec (and 0.024" more than I really want.) That means I'll have to chuck each cylinder up on the lathe and turn it down to what I want. </div>
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Unless...</div>
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...unless the heads are also anomalies, and have a much smaller chamber than normal heads, in which case the cylinders need to be extra long.... Bottom line, the new priority is get the heads reconditioned and blueprinted so I know what kind of setup I need.</div>
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There has been nothing straightforward about this engine. Armed with the knowledge I've gained from this process, I believe the next engine I assemble will be from brand new parts that I know the details on.</div>
Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12459213027433182592noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-915437194820145823.post-76003772773289684142017-08-07T21:56:00.000-04:002017-08-07T21:56:05.784-04:00...And flywheel solutions!I removed all the dowel pins from the crankshaft, which wasn't super difficult this time around... I think my holes are a light press fit, rather than the super-tight holes that were there originally. I'm not sure if that'll cause problems down the road or not; they are still a press fit, so load should (theoretically?) be transferred just as effectively.<br />
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The flywheel face on the crankshaft seemed to have zero runout when sitting in the crankcase, but there were a few problems with how I was taking that measurement that could have absorbed imperfections... so I decided to throw it at the lathe and check runout by painting the face with red dykem and scraping a tool along the face. The goal was to avoid removing any material, just rub the dykem off, and see if it was a gnarly edge on a dowel hole that was causing issues, or if the face itself was not perpendicular to the axis of rotation. I thought I took a picture of the result, but apparently this was another instance where my phone shut off instead of taking a picture... that's been happening a lot recently.<br />
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Anyways, the dykem was scraped off of about half the face, and the other half the dykem was still there; it made almost a perfect half circle of red and a half circle of steel. Now, the crankshaft was out about .0005 on each end, and I failed to document whether it was out the same direction at the same point in rotation; so when I did the math, I had to assume worst-case of the crankshaft being out a full thousandth of an inch. Even so, the pattern was much too extreme to blame it on a misalignment of that magnitude, so I turned a couple thousandths off the entire face. When I re-attached the flywheel, it was only out about 1 thousandth of an inch as opposed to the 8 I had before, so I put the dowels back in and put the flywheel back on. I put the whole thing on the lathe as an assembly, because I have to do a little more work on the flywheel.<br />
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Now to the part I have pictures of! The final flywheel is going to be two parts riveted together. The inside part will be turned from the original flywheel, and the outside is from a much lighter flexplate (which basically just positions the ring gear and transfers the load from the starter.) I cut the inside out of the flexplate on a CNC mill at work, since it was too big to turn on the lathe.<br />
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I also cut the outside off of the flywheel on the mill, but left it oversize so I could finish it on the lathe.<br />
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I could have programmed the mill to cut a circle, but I wanted to use a rotary table to get a true circle on the flexplate, since I can't touch that up on the lathe. Once I was set up to do that, it was just easier to do the same with the flywheel.<br />
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Once the flywheel and crankshaft assembly were on the lathe together, I started working towards the final shape. There's a step on the outside of the flywheel that needed to be turned flat with the rest of the face, and then a new step needed to be cut out from 5" diameter outwards to accept the flexplate. I've got the whole thing turned flat, and I used some red dykem to help me visualize where that 5" diameter will be.<br />
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It's been a little tough to find time to work on this stuff, but I think I see the light at the end of the tunnel. I have a few more parts on order, and once they get here I should be able to begin the reassembly process... which should be a pretty quick process, given how much documenting and adjusting and tweaking I've done *before* started to put it all together.Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12459213027433182592noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-915437194820145823.post-10061673704682615242017-07-15T12:10:00.000-04:002017-08-07T22:05:00.599-04:00Lathes + Flywheel Troubles<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Having a metal lathe, even a small one, is a fantastic way to avoid paying a large amount of money for a small amount of work. I started by chucking up the crankshaft and adjusting until I had less than a thou of runout. That's still too much for bearing work, but I'm not doing bearing work. I put a 45º chamfer on the flywheel mating face, and knocked the burrs off of the pulley hub mating portion of the shaft. A little polishing to make sure the pulley hub slips on, and we're off to the races. The pulley hub was heated to ~400º F, the crank cooled to ~10º F. I still had to use some persuasion with a hammer to seat it fully, but she's on there now.</div>
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The two aluminum rings are the replacement seal housing, complete with seal installed. I must've walked through the assembly process a dozen times to make sure I put the seal housing on the correct way, and I still checked it half a dozen times afterwards. The red material is a cut up silicon baking sheet to help keep the rubber on the seal from melting/losing its elasticity.</div>
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After I turned the chamfer on the flywheel end, I re-installed the 4 dowel pins. The bottom pin in the picture is larger than the rest, allowing me to index the flywheel. My plan is to mark TDC on the flywheel, since it can only line up one way, and with very tight tolerances.<br />
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When I attach the flywheel and snug up the nut, I still end up with about .008" of runout at the edge of the flywheel. Not a lot, but more than I'm willing to put this together with. I used some more PlastiGage between the flywheel and the crank surface to make sure I was fully seating the flywheel... sure enough, I wasn't, and the place where I wasn't touching the crankshaft is the same angle where the flywheel is furthest out. There are four factors at play here; the crankshaft face, the dowel pins, the flywheel face, and the flywheel holes for the dowels. The crankshaft face is most likely true, since that's how it was run successfully before, and my PlastiGage test seems to confirm it. I proved that the flywheel face was true by using a rotary table and a dial indicator and getting less than a thousandth of runout. I think that leaves the dowels. How did that happen?<br />
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It happened pretty simply - I used the flywheel to drill the dowel holes. Normally, this would've been the best way to go about it. However, because of that radius on the flywheel that I chamfered the crank to match, the flywheel wasn't sitting quite right on the crankshaft, which means the dowels are *slightly* cocked to one side, which means they *want* to pull the flywheel that way.<br />
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So my next step is to torque the flywheel to spec, which is some ridiculous number above 200 ft/lbs, and see if that fixes the problem. If not, I may have to get creative. On a positive note, the only bit of clearancing that I still need to do involves grinding a little material off one of the connecting rods. Once that's complete, I can start setting things out for assembly. I do, however, need to get this flywheel thing straightened out before I can move forward.Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12459213027433182592noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-915437194820145823.post-70582729944095705752017-07-03T19:23:00.000-04:002017-07-03T19:23:50.696-04:00Dowels are hard, PlastiGauge is soft.It took a lot of work, but I got all four dowel pins out without damaging the crank. The two I put in came out easily enough with some vise grips and a bit of twisting and pulling... the two that were in from before were another story entirely. Nothing would touch them, including the hardened jaws of a *nice* set of vise grips. (Those are no longer a nice set of vise grips, by the way.) In the end, I discovered why machinists have drill bit sets up to half an inch with just a couple thou of difference all the way up...<br />
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...It's because hardened steel pins can't be drilled out with big steps between bit sizes! It took me a solid hour and a half to drill each pin out. However, both of them twisted out right before I broke through the wall of the pin (after a couple good taps with a hammer on the side of the pin to break it up a bit.)</div>
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I checked the face on a dial indicator, and at most it's out a single thousandth at the edge. That's about an inch from center, which means that might account for about 5 thousandths at the edge of the flywheel.... which means something else is amiss. I checked the flywheel by placing it on an indexer, supported by placing a tight tolerance block between the indexer and the mating face on the flywheel. Spin the indexer, check for runout.... I forget what I got, but it was insignificant (which is why I forgot it. :D) I was pretty puzzled at that point. However, since the pins were out of the crank, I was able to rotate the flywheel on the crank. How does that help us? Well, before I pulled the dowels, I'd marked on the flywheel exactly *where* the runout was, as well as *how much.* When I put the flywheel back on after the pins were out, I lined it up pretty close to where it was originally... and got pretty much the same results. (I didn't use an indicator, as I was less interested in how much it was out as *where* it was out.... and it was wobbling pretty obviously.) Ok, repeatability, that's good. So I rotated the flywheel 180 degrees and tried again. If it was the flywheel, that should've made no difference; the marks on the flywheel still should have been correct. If it was the crank face that was out, then the marks on the flywheel should have been exactly (or close to) opposite what the flywheel was showing the second time around.</div>
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So what did I find? Well.... actually, it was about 70 degrees off from where it was originally. I didn't know what to make of that, until I started taking careful measurements of everything. What I found was that the flywheel had a bit of a radius where it mated with the crankshaft, and the crankshaft did not have that radius. I think what's happening is that there's a tiny bit of play between the *side walls* of the flywheel and the crankshaft, and the radius causes the face of the flywheel to be tighter than the crankshaft can fit into. Add the radius and a little bit of slop and, unless the radius on the flywheel and the edge on the crankshaft are perfectly uniform and smooth, odds are the flywheel just isn't seating fully and is staying at a bit of an angle. The fix is simple; just cut a matching radius (or, much easier, a slightly relieved chamfer) on the crankshaft. The side walls and dowel pins will still locate the flywheel, and the face where the two meet won't lose much area. I like that idea better than cutting a sharp corner into the flywheel. </div>
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I should mention, the reason that this is an easy fix is because I recently picked up a Jet 9x20 metal lathe. Just as soon as I finish getting that set up in the basement, this will be a pretty straightforward job. I'll be spending my evenings this week cleaning it up and, as soon as my insert tooling shows up next week, I'll be making chips and breaking tools. Also touching up airplane engine parts. </div>
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I also got my oil galley plugs straked in place so they can't rotate out. I found one of my case savers was loose, so I used some red LocTite, filed a notch in it, and straked that in place as well. </div>
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The last thing I wanted to do today was check my connecting rod bearing clearance. If you've never heard of PlastiGauge, you're in good company; none of the auto parts stores I went to had ever heard of it either. I ended up at a local NAPA, a company I spent 6 years working as a counterman for, and gave the kid at the counter the part number I remembered as being correct. "Huh, it says we've got 12 in stock. What is it again?" It comes from the warehouse packaged as a dozen, so I guess it shouldn't surprise me he'd never heard of it; he'd never sold any of it. Anyways, PlastiGauge is a kind of plastic-y wax string that's very precisely formed. A strip of it is placed between two surfaces you want to check clearance on, and those two surfaces are brought together however they will be brought together during final assembly. In this case, those surfaces are the connecting rods with bearings installed, and the crankshaft. Blurry picture, but the green little stripe in the middle of the white grease is the PlastiGauge before the con rod is tightened....</div>
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The lighting was pretty awful. However, I can tell you that the strip of green that's *not* a weird reflection is the one above the .0015" mark. Basically, that wax gets squished to different widths based on how much clearance is available, and the package the wax comes in has a gauge on the side to check it with. All four journals had *exactly* the same width as the .0015" mark, and they were all very even stripes from one side of the journal to the other. (If the journals or the con rods had any taper, that would've shown up as a tapered stripe.) The specs for this engine are 0.0008-0.0025, so I'm smack in the middle of where I want to be. Any wear is going to cause that clearance to open up, and I've got a solid thousandth of an inch for it to open up before I make it out of the range I want to be in.</div>
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I'll putz around with little things here and there, but mainly I'll be setting up that lathe and taking some test cuts to get to know it. I've got to do my touch up on the crankshaft, and a couple other things, and then I can start test assembling everything. </div>
Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12459213027433182592noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-915437194820145823.post-32083259012887014812017-06-18T12:47:00.000-04:002017-06-18T12:47:15.696-04:00MORE Case and Crank prep...It's been slow going lately, but progress seems to be taking place. I got lost in a lot of thought experiments and what-ifs, and (as is usually the case,) ended up right back where I started. So I cut the top off of the flywheel flange on the case, did a little bit of clearing on the inside of the case (some spots didn't seem to have more than a few thou of room for rotating parts), and used a Dremel to carve away a couple of channels for the engine mount in the back.<br />
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I also pulled all the aluminum plugs to get an idea of how much stuff was trapped in the case...<br />
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...And there was a lot! Much of that was from walnut blasting the case, but I found a good number of metal shavings as well. I'm glad I pulled the plugs... Next I tapped the holes for various pipe thread plugs, ranging from 1/16" NPT up to 3/8" NPT. I used a 1/2" NPT to tap a larger hole in the front for an oil temp sensor, because I've read bad things about the current temp sensor location (near the flywheel end of the case) actually reading quite a bit lower as a result of not being in a high-flow area. The new place is directly in the oil flow as it enters the oil pump, so it'd be hard to get a better reading than that!<br />
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Drilling and tapping the magnesium was quite easy, actually... in that the magnesium tapped without much force. There were a few places that I had to tap a few threads, then grind the tap down, then tap a few more, then grind, back and forth a few more times until the plug fit the way I wanted it to. There's one hole that I may have tapped just a little too hard and began to mess up the threads, but the plug threads in just fine and seems to have full contact along the entire length and circumference of the plug, so I'm going to leave it.<br />
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Now that all of the holes are prepped, I'll pull all the plugs out for another cleaning session. The last step will be to file a notch in each of the plugs so I can swage the case metal into those notches as a final insurance against the plugs working their way back out.<br />
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I forgot to take pictures, but I drilled the crankshaft for a couple more dowel pins. When I received it, it only had two, which was probably fine running the prop off the other end, but I'm not comfortable only using two running it with the prop hanging off the flywheel. So I drilled two more holes, reamed them, and tried to put the dowels in.... oops! One of the holes is *way* too loose! So I ordered a 11/32" drill bit blank, cut it down to the right length to be a dowel pin, and re-reamed the hole to be a press fit. This really isn't a bad plan anyway, as it keeps my flywheel aligned the same way every time it's reassembled, and the only extra work I'd have to do on a new flywheel is drill one hole slightly larger.<br />
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Upon reassembly of the flywheel and crank, I realized the flywheel is running about 60 thousandths out of true at the outermost edge. Not cool at all. So my next step is to remove the dowels and see if the crank face is out, but my bet is that somewhere along the way some burrs crept up and are keeping the crank from seating correctly. At least, I hope that's what happened... otherwise it's back to the machine shop.Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12459213027433182592noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-915437194820145823.post-70619245955875537142017-04-10T23:17:00.000-04:002017-04-10T23:17:10.085-04:00Starting to prep for assembly.... sort of.With my crankshaft back and polished, I was able to begin reassembling the gears onto the nose. First the key:<br />
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Heat up the cam drive gear, and slip it on:</div>
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Next the spacer and the new brass distributor gear.</div>
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I'm working out the best way to attach the prop hub - I know what orientation, but if I want it repeatable to exactly the same spot, I'll need to build some kind of jig that locates off of the cam drive gear. I'm not sure how much that will matter at this point.</div>
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In the meantime, I finished walnut blasting the case, and decided to try it on the heads as well. They were somewhat improved, but I'll still try soaking them in carb cleaner to try and get rid of more of the carbon that's built up. Ignore the ape blocking part of the picture...</div>
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And below, a chamber in progress to show my future self that it was, in fact, having an effect:</div>
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Once everything was sufficiently blasted, I used Simple Green to clean the case as best I could. I'll admit, I focused a little more on the outside than the inside, but I think it's pretty clean all the way through.</div>
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Once clean and dry, I cleaned the outside with solvent and got ready to paint. Bob Hoover says three things about painting the case: Do it, do it black, and do it thin. When I got the case, it was painted a dark gray... over top of a dark blue. Two layers of paint, the outer one fairly thick, were definitely not going to help much with thermal transfer, and yet it still flew that way. In light of that fact, I took Bob Hoover's advice on two of the points: I painted it, and I painted it thin.... and I painted it red.</div>
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I figure the color is less important than the paint thickness, so I cut the paint with Naptha and brushed it on, making sure to run the brush over any areas that looked like they had extra paint. The end result is definitely brush-textured, and not exactly what I had envisioned, but it looks pretty nifty all the same... and more importantly, it's protected from corrosion and it's not likely to overheat from the paint. I'll put this in the oven like I did the cylinders to get the paint nice and hard... it makes a big difference!</div>
Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12459213027433182592noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-915437194820145823.post-28492679504010735772017-03-31T18:28:00.000-04:002017-03-31T18:28:47.929-04:00Good news! (And also, electronics are finicky!)Just a quick pseudo-celebratory post - all of the work I've been doing on this engine has been under the shadow of uncertainty. The engine was involved in an off-airport landing, and I've been wondering if my crankshaft had sustained any damage. If it had, this engine would probably be scrap, based on how it had been modified - the major modified parts just don't seem to be readily available, and other manufacturer's modified parts wouldn't fit, and that would mean I'd need a new crankshaft, prop hub, and engine case, and they'd all have to be machined... Got it back from the machine shop today with a clean bill of health. Now I just have to finish cleaning and painting a few things, and the reassembly can begin.<br />
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In other news, apparently circuit design is a little tougher than I thought... received the PCB I had printed for my landing lights, (they look FANTASTIC, by the way - really like the purple solder mask with the gold solder pads) soldered everything in place, and... nothing. Back to the drawing board...<br />
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<br />Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12459213027433182592noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-915437194820145823.post-30827767537787287462017-03-28T00:03:00.000-04:002017-03-28T00:03:42.735-04:00Rust removal sucks, Cleaning sucks, Painting sucks.......but they're all pretty necessary if this engine is going to last. So I've been doing due diligence to remove corrosion, clean up, prep, paint, and heat treat all my engine components according to best practices as instructed by Bob Hoover and Tom Wilson. There's a fantastic resource online at http://www.eaa691.net/images/pdf/VW%20aircraft%20engine%20building.pdf , which is a hundred some pages on what to do, why to do it, and what happens when you don't. I've been just collecting parts and trying to get everything ready for the first trial assembly. Tomorrow I'm taking my crankshaft in to have it magnafluxed, and if it comes back ok I'll start putting stuff back on it. First the woodruff key and the gears, then the prop hub. The next step will be installing the bearings in the crank case, and dropping crank and camshaft, along with some associated hardware, inside and making sure it all turns the way I want it to. <div>
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The cylinder on the left has wet paint on it, the cylinder on the right has been cleaned but not painted yet. I made sure to keep track of the cylinders, and marked them after they were painted so I could keep track of them.</div>
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As it turns out, the cylinders I designated as "A" and "D" were both 4.490" between the two sealing surfaces, whereas cylinders "B" and "C" were slightly shorter at 4.487". That's right on the edge of too much difference, but because I've got less than a half a thousandth of difference between matching cylinders, I'm not going to send them out to have them machined. Instead, I'll put both of the "long" cylinders on one side, so the heads will be able to seal correctly, and either make up the difference between the two sides with a .003 shim, or just not worry about it.... for all I know, once it's assembled, other tolerances may stack up and either make it a larger difference or even it out. That's why I'm calling this a "trial" assembly, because there may be adjustments to make after it's all together. </div>
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I'm working on removing some surface rust on my prop hub with vinegar. Most of it came off after soaking for about two hours, but I'll give it another shot tomorrow after work. I still have a fair amount of cleaning to do on the engine case, which is about the last thing I want to do... but it's going to be the thing that's holding me up in just a few days, I think. By next week, I hope to be posting pictures of a freshly painted, partially assembled engine.</div>
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Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12459213027433182592noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-915437194820145823.post-37571218355737894232017-03-15T23:06:00.000-04:002017-03-29T12:23:34.827-04:00Lights! Cameras! Snow drifts! (aka, Lighting Part 1)LED lighting. Pretty expensive for normal people, not so shocking to airplane people. But you can pay upwards of a grand for the basic strobes and a landing light. Once again, something in me says, "I can do it cheaper!" And in this case, that something in me is right.<br />
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In the magazine "Kitplanes," a guy named Jim Weir writes a column on all sorts of electrical topics, from basic concepts to DIY projects. One of the tasks he tackles is building your own LED lighting kit for significantly less than you can buy one. Naturally, I was impressed, and after purchasing the components listed, I built the circuits in their entirety on a breadboard and plugged them in. Unfortunately, nothing happened. I started taking the circuit apart and focusing on individual components, making sure they worked as I thought they should. The only part that wasn't working was the part of the circuit that caused the strobes to.... well.... strobe. I sent email after email to several of Jim's email addresses, and email after email to the contact address for the magazine. After a couple of months of no response from anyone, I decided to give up on the strobe circuit as published.</div>
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My solution was to digitize. I've been playing around with Arduino at work, and decided to see what I could accomplish here. </div>
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The LEDs I'm using are made by LEDEngin. The strobe part numbers are LZ1-00R102 (red), LZ1-00G102 (green), and LZ1-00CW102 (white). I'm running these at 800mA, which isn't quite as bright as they can be, but should keep them from burning out for at least a decade. The landing light part number is LZ9-00CW00. </div>
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So, the difficulty is in powering these guys. That part of the circuit I went ahead and borrowed from Jim. Basically, you use a transistor and a resistor wired up as a current limiting circuit. To tune the current, you adjust the resistor. </div>
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Now, for the landing light, that's it. Case closed. Toss a switch in there and all the heat shrink and wire loom you can find, and then cover the whole thing over with electrical tape and dunk it in that Plasti-Dip stuff for good measure. (Pretty sure that's not how the Designated Airworthiness Representative wants to see your electrical work done.) The strobes still need some work, though, and for that we turn to a tiny electronic arachnid called an ATTINY85.</div>
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The AT-Tiny-85 is programmed with the Arduino IDE. Arduino borrows heavily from C++, but it's so well documented that even a complete ape like me can copypasta (that's internet lingo for copy and paste) and make things work. The ATTINY85 has 8 pins, but we only need 3 - one for each strobe. The ATTINY85 puts out 5v, which is plenty for our LEDs, but it only sends a measly 40mA per pin. That's not enough to light our LED, but it *is* enough to trigger a Darlington transistor... which is exactly what we'll do.</div>
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A transistor can act like an electronic switch - voltage won't flow across two pins, unless voltage is applied to the third pin. A Darlington transistor is akin to two transistors paired in order to handle large amounts of power, while being switched by just a little bit. In our case, we're controlling 800mA at 12v by applying >40mA at 5v. This means that not only can we turn our LEDs on and off electronically, but we can write code for any strobe pattern or brightness (by using Pulse Width Modulation) and upload it to the chip, rather than swapping analog electronic components for different timing or brightness. What's more, we can control each LED on its own pin, so they can be independently programmed, but they're all running from the same chip, so they can be synced perfectly if we so desire. And we do so desire.</div>
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So, in the end, I spent >$150 for everything, including lenses and having the PCB printed and shipped to me. That's pretty stinking good, considering these lights are significantly brighter than what's on the old Cessna 172 I learned to fly in. Total power consumption is >5 amps, which is significantly less than what the old Cessna draws for its dim lights. This may not be the best solution, but it is *a* solution, and I'm pretty happy with it. </div>
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In the spirit of sharing, I've added the board and parts list below, <strike>and the board can be ordered at https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/6PehzB0Z . </strike><br />
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<i>*edited March 29,2017: Turns out the board isn't quite right... Upon population, the landing lights worked just fine, but the strobes weren't working at all. I'll link to the new board once I figure out what's wrong and fix it...</i></div>
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Parts list:</div>
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1x LEDEngin LZ1-00R102</div>
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1x LEDEngin LZ1-00G102</div>
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1x LEDEngin LZ1-00CW102</div>
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1x LEDEngin LZ9-00CW00</div>
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1x ATTINY85</div>
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3x 2 watt 1.5 ohm Resistors</div>
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3x 2 watt 1.8 ohm Resistors</div>
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3x 1/4 watt 1k ohm Resistors</div>
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6x LM317 Transistors</div>
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3x BDX33C Transistors (TIP-120s will work just as well)</div>
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You'll also need a way to program the ATTINY85. I use the AVR USB programmer from SparkFun. The code in its entirety can be copypasta'd from below:</div>
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/*</div>
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LED_Flashers_Rev_3</div>
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Designed for a homebuilt airplane's LED strobe lights using an</div>
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ATTINY85 chip. This code will flash the LEDs 10 times in 800ms,</div>
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then leave them off for 800ms.</div>
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modified March 15, 2017</div>
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by Matt Quimby</div>
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*/</div>
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// the setup function runs once when you press reset or power the board</div>
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void setup() {</div>
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// initialize digital pin 13 as an output.</div>
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pinMode(0, OUTPUT);</div>
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pinMode(1, OUTPUT);</div>
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pinMode(2, OUTPUT);</div>
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}</div>
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// the loop function runs over and over again forever</div>
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void loop() {</div>
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for(int i = 0; i < 10; i++) // using a "For Loop," int = integer, used as a counter to count "i." Starts by assigning a value of 0 to "i," and states that the bracketed code should loop if it reads "i" to be less than 10. "i++" tells the counter to add 1 to "i" each time the sequence is run.</div>
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{</div>
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digitalWrite(0, HIGH); // turn the LED on (HIGH is the voltage level)</div>
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digitalWrite(1, HIGH);</div>
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digitalWrite(2, HIGH);</div>
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delay(40); // wait for 40 milliseconds</div>
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digitalWrite(0, LOW); // turn the LED off</div>
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digitalWrite(1, LOW);</div>
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digitalWrite(2, LOW);</div>
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delay(40); // wait for 40 milliseconds</div>
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} // completes the inner loop</div>
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delay(800); // wait for 800 milliseconds</div>
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} // completes the outer loop and starts from the "void loop" again</div>
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And the board: (2.51" x 2.61")</div>
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And finally, the followiing is how I spent my afternoon and evening.</div>
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Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12459213027433182592noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-915437194820145823.post-15322855663711512892017-03-03T22:55:00.001-05:002017-03-03T22:55:07.643-05:00More surprises!Curiouser and curiouser! I spent a fair amount of time during disassembly taking measurements and writing things down, and then promptly forgot to worry about any of those numbers. When I was sold this engine, it was sold to me as a 2180. There was some mystery behind its history, but I didn't think too much of it. However, as I was ordering parts today, I realized that the numbers didn't match up.... specifically, the cylinder and crank numbers. <div>
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A Volkswagen 2180 engine begins life with around 2/3 that displacement, and then a bit of machine work is down. The crankshaft, which comes stock with a stroke of 69mm, is replaced with a crank with a stroke of 82mm. In addition, the cylinders and pistons, originally in the 85-90mm bore range, are replaced with 92mm sets, which gives the final displacement of 2180cc.</div>
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My Volkswagen "2180" engine no doubt had similar beginnings, but the end result is a bit different - the pistons are not 92mm, but 94mm. The crank stroke, likewise, instead of 82mm, is 78mm. The engine I'm working on has, in fact, a displacement of approximately 2165.</div>
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What does that mean? I'm not sure. Obviously the parts for it are different. As far as power and reliability, those depend a lot more on quality of workmanship than they do on any other factor. Bottom line, I *may* have a little more torque, or I *may* not, and at the end of the day it's still up to me to build a solid engine. </div>
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This does cause some complications, though. The main one I've run into so far is that nobody sells cylinders for a 78mm stroke... only 69mm and 82mm. That being said, some folks sell the 82's as "78-84mm," and don't give any other dimensions. There are three possibilities, as I see them (in order of most preferable to least preferable from my point of view):</div>
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1. The cylinders are short enough for 78mm stroke, and you add shims to use them for longer strokes</div>
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2. The cylinders are long enough for 84mm stroke, and you cut them down on a metal lathe if you need shorter cylinders</div>
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3. The cylinders are somewhere in the middle, and we don't really expect you to worry about compression ratio that much.</div>
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I'll know better once they show up and I can measure them. One way or another I'll get this engine built.... but if I have to custom cut each cylinder, it'll probably cause me to wait a little longer before the next rebuild.</div>
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On a more normal note, I finally got my crankshaft ready to send out for NDT (Non-Destructive Testing). Here's the key in the slot:</div>
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Partway removed:</div>
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All the way out:</div>
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I hope to spend some time this weekend cleaning the parts I intend to reuse... we'll see if I can pull myself away from this guy long enough to get any work done.</div>
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Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12459213027433182592noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-915437194820145823.post-18797450094924833972017-02-23T20:41:00.000-05:002017-02-23T20:45:48.555-05:00Slow progress, but promising results!A few months ago, my wife and I relocated to Rochester, NY for work, and to be closer to her family.<br />
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A small part of my new job is machining odd parts on a Tormach 1100, a 2.5 axis CNC mill. As a result, I'm now able to make *much* nicer and more complex parts than I could on my drill press in my shop back in PA. Which is really handy, since I ruined a couple of custom pieces taking this engine apart.<br />
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This is a two-piece housing that holds an oil seal. All of the information I could gather said that this should be attached in a way that prying and application of heat would allow its removal. All of that information was incorrect, as it turns out. Several #6 screws, hidden by RTV sealant and covered with paint, held this assembly on. I managed to bend it during my first failed attempt at removal, but even worse, I scraped the sealing face pretty bad with the screwdriver I was using to pry it off. As a result, I needed to replace both pieces.... and it just so happens I now have the tools to do so.</div>
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I didn't take a lot of pictures, but here's a shot of an aluminum blank next to one of the (almost) finished pieces:</div>
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I think the originals were turned on a lathe, based on the finish on the old parts vs the finish on the new parts. (Admittedly, I am not what most would call a competent machinist, so maybe I just failed to produce a quality part.) However, I think the new pieces will work out just fine.<br />
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According to the book I'm reading, "How to Rebuild your Volkswagen Aircooled Engine," Tom Wilson says the best way to clean the aluminum/magnesium engine case is with regular old soap.... with phosphate. Probably wasn't hard to come by when the book was written, but now it seems nobody sells it. I'm going to try regular old soap without phosphate, and see what happens. I'll be taking my crankshaft in next week to have it magnafluxed, and if it passes I'll be placing my big order for engine parts. My hope is that the engine will go back together pretty quickly, since there was no apparent damage and it ran ok before. </div>
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As explanation for my apparent lack of significant progress, allow me to placate you with a picture of my son, who was born a few weeks ago, and has been eating up all of my time. Strangely, I don't mind....</div>
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Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12459213027433182592noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-915437194820145823.post-72856809612448656322017-01-21T13:45:00.001-05:002017-01-21T13:45:39.315-05:00Those bearings fit a what!?I began searching for clues as to what bearing replaced the usual #4 on this engine. First, I checked the bearing, and was able to find some numbers: 7D03 and 7D02, as well as STD (abbreviation of Standard, meaning this bearing fits new engine cases for the engine it's designed for, as opposed to bearings for engines that are line bored larger during overhaul.) So I started with that. Unfortunately, none of the parts stores I got in touch with were able to cross-reference that number to any of their bearing sets. Since the company that converted my engine for aircraft use is no longer in business, I couldn't contact them for help. I reached out to other folks who are part of the homebuilt and vw-for-aircraft community, but they were unable to provide any information. So I took some measurements and called the parts stores to see if they could match up a bearing set to dimensions. NONE of the parts stores I talked to had any way of doing that! At this point, I was at a loss. I looked into setting up the engine to run with the prop on the flywheel end instead of the pulley end, but my engine case was modified so I'd need a special bearing anyway, and without a way to order bearings by dimension, I was up a creek. Eventually, through several long nights exploring deep into the heart of the internet, I found a very large PDF from a company called King that links bearings to their vehicles AND THEIR DIMENSIONS, and was able to find fairly quickly with a search function *exactly* what I was after. (A direct link to the catalog is here: https://www.motorencenter.de/fileadmin/usercontent/King-Engine-Bearings-catalog-2015_2016.pdf )<br />
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Once armed with a part number, I was able to cross reference that number and get a Federal Mogul number, which Rock Auto had available for about 15 bucks. Upon arrival, I checked all the dimensions, and I'm quite convinced that this is the bearing used in my engine. What does it fit? Why, a 1968 Nissan 520 Pickup, of course.<br />
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New bearing below, along with old one for comparison:<br />
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With that mystery solved, I'm cleaning my crankcase and crankshaft so I can have them tested for cracks. I don't expect to have that done this week, as I'm coming down with something nasty and don't feel like doing *anything.* Baby steps are still progress....</div>
Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12459213027433182592noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-915437194820145823.post-49939287403037936512017-01-07T21:34:00.000-05:002017-01-07T21:34:49.479-05:00Engine DISassembly (Part 4)Between the holidays and lacking the proper tools half the time, it took me until now to finish gearing the engine apart. Mainly, the prop hub and crank gears were my main difficulties. The prop hub I removed with the aid of a 3 jaw puller and two 4-foot extensions. One was a piece of angle iron drilled to fit the prop hub holes to keep the crankshaft from turning, the other was a 1" iron tube around a breaker bar.<br />
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Once the prop hub was off, the next task was removing the cam and distributor gears. I machined a couple of pieces of aluminum and made a makeshift puller for those. Forgot to take a picture of that, but it worked. This picture shows the crank before the gears were removed.</div>
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The next two pictures are the main bearings, which I'm having difficulty locating replacements for. It seems the 4th bearing (bottom of first pic, right-most in second) is something different than normal, and I'm not sure where to look to find one that matches.</div>
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Once I have that figured out, I'll start ordering parts and cleaning things up for reassembly.</div>
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Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12459213027433182592noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-915437194820145823.post-1912614498304687542016-11-20T23:51:00.002-05:002016-11-20T23:59:41.209-05:00Engine DISassembly (Part 3)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I've been stuck trying to find the right tools for the last week or so, and then trying to find the time, but I finally made some progress. The pictures below show a collar assembly on the front of the motor, behind the prop hub. Apparently this setup is an anomaly - no one I spoke with was able to identify it. There are 4 screws that hold the front collar onto the back collar, which has one screw into each side of the case. Once I got the right size hex key, these came off and the case came apart.</div>
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These two collars house an oil seal around the crank shaft where it exits the case. My first inclination is to replace the seal, but I'm not sure what kind of damage I might do removing the prop hub. I'll have to think about it.<br />
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Once the case was split, I pulled all the cam followers and labelled them so I could replace them in the same locations. I'll be taking a lot of pictures once I've cleaned things up, but the camshaft looks like it's in great shape, so that and the followers will probably stay.</div>
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The inside of the engine wasn't as pretty a machining job as I'd expected, but everything turned nice and smooth when it was all together, so I'm not too worried about it. I haven't found a reason for the fine metal shavings yet, which makes me uneasy. </div>
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This is where I left it. There are only a couple of things left to do on the case before it can be cleaned up and inspected, and I don't expect the crankshaft assembly will be difficult to take apart. After that I can begin blueprinting, clean and inspect, order my parts, and put this thing back together.</div>
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<br />Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12459213027433182592noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-915437194820145823.post-65147899434506241712016-11-13T22:00:00.000-05:002016-11-20T23:58:09.801-05:00Engine DISassembly (Part 2)Not much progress today, but I got a little further. I keep running into bolts that I don't have wrenches for, although hopefully that will stop soon. The main thing I accomplished today was setting up a table to work on, covered in plastic, and transferring the engine block from the stand to my new "workbench."<br />
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I got the pistons out, which ended up being easy enough... the Teflon buttons really were just floating in there, but I needed something sharp to stab the sides of the buttons to get enough grip to remove them. I forgot to take pictures of them tonight, but when I get into working on the cylinders I'll be spending about a paragraph on how crummy those buttons are.</div>
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Removed cylinders yesterday, but they're all laid out in order here. You can see the lower right cylinder has a lot of corrosion on the outside of it - the other three cylinders aren't corroded much at all. I think the corroded cylinder was a quick replacement to avoid a more serious rebuild earlier in this engine's life.</div>
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Another disappointing discovery when I removed the accessory case that covers the flywheel - the teeth are chipped pretty bad on about a quarter of the flywheel. Not messing around with that - I'll have to replace it.... unless they sell just the ring gear for it. I'll look into that...</div>
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I also removed the valve springs, and while those all seem to be in good shape, I did notice that the same cylinder with lots of corrosion also has mismatching valves.... the valve on the far left below has almost no carbon deposited, not to mention is shaped different. I'll have to make a decision on whether or not that is an issue/will bother me enough to get new valves.</div>
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And here's the part where I don't have a big enough wrench - or rather, big enough socket. Not sure a wrench would be really effective, since this is recessed inside the flywheel.</div>
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Tomorrow I'll pick up some more specialty sockets, and hopefully make some more progress on tearing this thing apart. My goal is to have a semi-final list of parts to order by the end of the coming weekend, as I suspect some of the parts will take some time to acquire... especially if I wait until the holiday season.</div>
Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12459213027433182592noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-915437194820145823.post-1665212173318183882016-11-12T16:41:00.004-05:002016-11-20T23:57:06.334-05:00Engine DISassembly (Part One)After a bit of a hiatus, I began tearing down the engine I intend to hang on the front of the plane. I'll be using a 2180 Volkswagen engine, originally built for aircraft use by Hapi a number of years ago. When I received the engine, it was mostly assembled, but I wanted to tear it down, blueprint everything, and rebuild it myself so I know it's done right. Besides, it's hard to powder coat an engine block with stuff attached. So today I finally started yanking stuff off.<br />
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Engine on the stand, ready for disassembly:</div>
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First I pulled the intake manifolds and spark plugs. I'm working on this engine away from home, so I lack most of my tools and all the helpful things like oil drain pans... Therefore, I used an empty lemonade bottle to catch the old oil. Seemed to work.</div>
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I pulled the valve covers, then the valve train. Sure looks a lot simpler than any other engine I've taken apart.<br />
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Next step was to pull the head, which came off pretty easily, along with one of the cylinders. The other cylinder wasn't much trouble.<br />
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The pushrods and pushrod tubes fell right out as well, and I hung onto those for referencing when I reassemble. I'll probably replace them, along with a good deal of other hardware inside.<br />
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The left head valve train was shimmed about .122 off of the head.<br />
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The right side wasn't any more difficult than the left. Valve train shimmed .088 on the right side.<br />
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I'd have liked to do more, but a little research is in order. The pistons are held on by a large pin, and that pin is usually captured by E-clips or similar devices. Whoever assembled this engine most recently used Teflon blocks that ride against the cylinder wall instead. Nice idea in theory, but if they ever wear down, there wouldn't be anything holding the piston pin in place... which would mean a catastrophic failure. I also noticed that one of the Teflon "buttons" had picked up some debris and scored the cylinder wall with it... another thing that wouldn't happen with the right hardware. I'll have to take some measurements and decide whether I want to hone that cylinder or replace it.</div>
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This is where I left off today.</div>
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You can see the Teflon "buttons" in the picture below - they're the white circles on the sides of the pistons. I have no idea how to remove these, unless they're to be pressed out with the piston pins. Time for research.</div>
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Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12459213027433182592noreply@blogger.com0