Slow progress, but promising results!

A few months ago, my wife and I relocated to Rochester, NY for work, and to be closer to her family.

A small part of my new job is machining odd parts on a Tormach 1100, a 2.5 axis CNC mill. As a result, I'm now able to make *much* nicer and more complex parts than I could on my drill press in my shop back in PA. Which is really handy, since I ruined a couple of custom pieces taking this engine apart.

This is a two-piece housing that holds an oil seal. All of the information I could gather said that this should be attached in a way that prying and application of heat would allow its removal. All of that information was incorrect, as it turns out. Several #6 screws, hidden by RTV sealant and covered with paint, held this assembly on. I managed to bend it during my first failed attempt at removal, but even worse, I scraped the sealing face pretty bad with the screwdriver I was using to pry it off. As a result, I needed to replace both pieces.... and it just so happens I now have the tools to do so.

I didn't take a lot of pictures, but here's a shot of an aluminum blank next to one of the (almost) finished pieces:

I think the originals were turned on a lathe, based on the finish on the old parts vs the finish on the new parts. (Admittedly, I am not what most would call a competent machinist, so maybe I just failed to produce a quality part.) However, I think the new pieces will work out just fine.

According to the book I'm reading, "How to Rebuild your Volkswagen Aircooled Engine," Tom Wilson says the best way to clean the aluminum/magnesium engine case is with regular old soap.... with phosphate. Probably wasn't hard to come by when the book was written, but now it seems nobody sells it. I'm going to try regular old soap without phosphate, and see what happens. I'll be taking my crankshaft in next week to have it magnafluxed, and if it passes I'll be placing my big order for engine parts. My hope is that the engine will go back together pretty quickly, since there was no apparent damage and it ran ok before. 

As explanation for my apparent lack of significant progress, allow me to placate you with a picture of my son, who was born a few weeks ago, and has been eating up all of my time. Strangely, I don't mind....

Control Sticks (Part 6)

Continued from Control Sticks (Part 5)
I finished cutting, shaping, and drilling the aluminum brackets, as well as the nylon bearing surfaces. I was very careful to make sure there would be no slop in the system when I was drilling the holes. Somehow, once again, I managed to order the wrong size hardware, so everything is temporarily assembled with other bolts I had on hand. I'm going to write up a list, or maybe a spreadsheet, that lays out what length bolt is ideal for various depths of material, because I can't seem to get it right. I test assembled everything on my workbench, and marked my layout so I could transfer the brackets to the plane.

Next I marked on the front spar where I wanted the brackets to be, lined them up and clamped them, and started drilling holes. I drilled one hole at a time, making sure everything lined up before committing to another hole. I really didn't wanna screw this up!

Everything in place, at least temporarily:

As you can see, I left the actual sticks long because I wasn't sure what length I'd want. I'm going to have to give them both a slight bend so they'll have enough throw to clear the front spar, whilst remaining far enough forward to be comfortable. I'll have to disassemble when the correct hardware arrives, and I may paint everything for corrosion resistance. I also need to redo the cables - only one of the three cables has a turnbuckle, which means if the cables ever stretched or needed adjustment, you'd have a heck of a time getting things realigned. Regardless, I'm much happier with this setup - lower profile, much better geometry, and working on this gave me an idea for a really simplistic aileron trim that'd be pretty easy to implement.

Control Sticks (Part 5)

Continued from Control Sticks (Part 4)
I got my brackets and sticks back from the welder today. I forgot to take a picture of the bracket, but this is how I fitted and attached the aluminum "fingers" to the sticks for welding.

I cut a square wooden peg to match the OD of the aluminum tube, drilled a hole where the aileron cable connection will be, then chucked it up in my lathe and turned the other end down to the ID. I turned far enough along the peg to set the depth of my jig.

This is the jig inserted into the tube, with the fingers already welded on. A small C-clamp held the fingers to the tube for tack welding, and then was removed for the full passes.

I realized after I got these sticks back that I had forgotten to mark where I needed the other set of holes. The main problem I faced was getting the holes in the center of the tubing and lined up with the existing holes. My drill press vise is just far enough off of level and plumb that I didn't trust it, so instead I used a speed square to find the center on both sides, then drill and ream the holes.

I drilled and tapped a length of ¼" 4130 tubing to connect my two control sticks along the horizontal axis, which turned out to be a little bit of a trick. I chucked the tubing in my lathe in order to drill it out so I could tap it, then locked the lathe up and tapped it by hand. I didn't drill quite far enough on one end, so I broke the tap... luckily, enough was sticking out that I could grab it with pliers and screw it right back out. Another trip to the hardware store for a new tap, and I was finished. I threaded in two AN42B "eye bolts," and it was ready to connect.

The last of the metalwork for the control sticks was to make the mounting brackets. I needed a set of brackets to hold the control sticks, and a set of brackets that will mount to the back of the rear spar where the pushrod will transition to cables. I did some adjusting to Mark Langford's drawings for the former, and did some math and drew up the latter on some graph paper. Here they are, attached to ⅛" 6061 T6 aluminum angles, but not cut out yet. I started by drilling all the holes, since that can be a difficult procedure once everything is cut out.

Tomorrow I hope to finish the mounting brackets and begin assembly in the fuselage.
Continued in Control Sticks (Part 6)

Control Sticks (Part 4)

Continued from Control Sticks (Part 3)
I made progress on a lot of little things today. I laid out, drilled, and cut the nylon bearing surfaces for the control sticks. Forgot to take pictures of that. I redesigned the brackets that'll bolt to the front spar, because the plans I'm using account for a flap design I'm not using. I'm still waiting on the material I need to fashion the brackets, so I couldn't work any further on that. I also drew up plans for the bracket assembly to hold the bellcrank behind the rear spar,  where my pushrod will transition to cables for elevator control.

I've found no matter how much I work with various CAD software, the easiest and fastest way for me to design things is still on paper. (Partly because I usually spend about an hour fighting with my printer when I want the finished design printed to scale.)

I'm not a very proficient welder, and I don't have the right tools, so I sent my jigged-up assemblies out to be welded. Once those come back and the rest of my material shows up, I'll be able to finish this project and move forward. I believe I'll finish the rudder pedal assembly next. Sometimes I feel like I'm going to run out of work that isn't fiberglassing before it warms up, but I'm well known for taking *way* longer than I say I will to finish projects.