Whoops... This is a new problem!

Ok, ok, it's not really a problem... at least, it's not a mistake or a roadblock or a money pit kind of problem. The last few weeks have been pretty good - I finished assembling my heads,

made a plate for bolting the cylinders on to check deck height for each piston/cylinder set,

(btw, this gave me wacky results - I had to remake the plate to cover *both* cylinders at once, the same way the head will when the engine is assembled)

(Again, not like this.) and then made a new two-cylinder capturing plate and measured deck height at final torque.

Deck heights were all pretty darn close - I had a spread of 0.1997", 0.122", 0.1225", 0.125". Because I have a lathe handy, I was planning on chucking up the pistons and dusting them all perfect - but after doing the math, I realized that by arranging the heads correctly, my compression ratio would range from 7.976:1 to 8.021:1. In other words, a maximum difference of 0.045:1......... I think that's close enough!

I went ahead and painted the cylinder numbers on the case according to convention, and then marked the cylinders and pistons accordingly.

Since I wanted the heads on certain sides, I went ahead and marked them as well.

The last thing I have to do on the engine for now is bag everything up - each head will get a bag, each piston/cylinder will get a bag, and the block will get a bag. I don't want to have to carry the assembled engine up out of the basement when we move in a few months, so I'll just leave it in pieces until it's in a shop that's on the ground floor. After that, I'll assemble it and bag it again, until I need to take more measurements off it or am ready to attach it to an airplane. So what's the problem, you ask? Well, this engine has been about the only thing I can do related to my plane right now. Every couple weeks we travel to see the rest of my family, and I can sneak away for a few hours to work on the plane when we're there, but otherwise it's just me and the engine. Now that I'm mostly done with that, I'm not sure how I'll keep making progress... and if I'm not making progress, I'll drive my wife over the edge. :)

Fit so nice, I made it twice....

Actually, it was the wrong material, so I kicked myself a few times and bought a new flywheel. This time, a *forged* flywheel, not a *cast* flywheel. Had I the sense to do more research ahead of time, I'd have only made it once. Nonetheless, the new version is around 300% *less* likely to break apart during flight.

That's version 2. Same dimensions, but machines a lot more like 4130 than the first one.

In this blurry picture I'm pointing out the locating step for the flexplate. That way I know it's concentric. I did the same on the inside for the prop extension:

Now that this is finished, I was able to start test assembling the crankcase. First, the connecting rods on the crankshaft:

Drop the crank assembly into the case and add some nuts, torqued to spec:

It still rotated freely after it was torqued, so that was a good sign. No rubbing or clearance issues so far. The next step was to add the head studs and check the piston deck height. I painted my head studs to help avoid corrosion:

And then I added them to the pile.

I added a cylinder and piston, and started taking measurements. I used a .030" shim under the cylinder, which is how the engine came to me. I set up my dial indicator and rotated the crank to TDC for that cylinder.

Zero'd up the dial indicator (though the photo makes it look off);

Using a piece of steel rod I had laying around as a straightedge, I measure deck clearance + rod width at 0.428" or so.

The rod I used measured 0.314", which means my clearance distance is 0.114". That's a lot more than I want! VW specs are between 0.040" and 0.080". I went back and checked, and the old pistons are the same as the new ones, and the old cylinders were within a couple thousandths of the new ones. That means that this engine was assembled wildly out of spec.... which shouldn't be a surprise, but it was. And means more work; removing the shims brings me down to 0.084", which is out of spec (and 0.024" more than I really want.) That means I'll have to chuck each cylinder up on the lathe and turn it down to what I want. 

Unless...

...unless the heads are also anomalies, and have a much smaller chamber than normal heads, in which case the cylinders need to be extra long.... Bottom line, the new priority is get the heads reconditioned and blueprinted so I know what kind of setup I need.

There has been nothing straightforward about this engine. Armed with the knowledge I've gained from this process, I believe the next engine I assemble will be from brand new parts that I know the details on.

Rust removal sucks, Cleaning sucks, Painting sucks...

....but they're all pretty necessary if this engine is going to last. So I've been doing due diligence to remove corrosion, clean up, prep, paint, and heat treat all my engine components according to best practices as instructed by Bob Hoover and Tom Wilson. There's a fantastic resource online at http://www.eaa691.net/images/pdf/VW%20aircraft%20engine%20building.pdf , which is a hundred some pages on what to do, why to do it, and what happens when you don't. I've been just collecting parts and trying to get everything ready for the first trial assembly. Tomorrow I'm taking my crankshaft in to have it magnafluxed, and if it comes back ok I'll start putting stuff back on it. First the woodruff key and the gears, then the prop hub. The next step will be installing the bearings in the crank case, and dropping crank and camshaft, along with some associated hardware, inside and making sure it all turns the way I want it to. 

I got new cylinders and pistons, measured them, weighed them, cleaned them *very* well, and painted them black to prevent corrosion and encourage heat transfer. 

The cylinder on the left has wet paint on it, the cylinder on the right has been cleaned but not painted yet. I made sure to keep track of the cylinders, and marked them after they were painted so I could keep track of them.

As it turns out, the cylinders I designated as "A" and "D" were both 4.490" between the two sealing surfaces, whereas cylinders "B" and "C" were slightly shorter at 4.487". That's right on the edge of too much difference, but because I've got less than a half a thousandth of difference between matching cylinders, I'm not going to send them out to have them machined. Instead, I'll put both of the "long" cylinders on one side, so the heads will be able to seal correctly, and either make up the difference between the two sides with a .003 shim, or just not worry about it.... for all I know, once it's assembled, other tolerances may stack up and either make it a larger difference or even it out. That's why I'm calling this a "trial" assembly, because there may be adjustments to make after it's all together. 

I'm working on removing some surface rust on my prop hub with vinegar. Most of it came off after soaking for about two hours, but I'll give it another shot tomorrow after work. I still have a fair amount of cleaning to do on the engine case, which is about the last thing I want to do... but it's going to be the thing that's holding me up in just a few days, I think. By next week, I hope to be posting pictures of a freshly painted, partially assembled engine.

More surprises!

Curiouser and curiouser! I spent a fair amount of time during disassembly taking measurements and writing things down, and then promptly forgot to worry about any of those numbers. When I was sold this engine, it was sold to me as a 2180. There was some mystery behind its history, but I didn't think too much of it. However, as I was ordering parts today, I realized that the numbers didn't match up.... specifically, the cylinder and crank numbers. 

A Volkswagen 2180 engine begins life with around 2/3 that displacement, and then a bit of machine work is down. The crankshaft, which comes stock with a stroke of 69mm, is replaced with a crank with a stroke of 82mm. In addition, the cylinders and pistons, originally in the 85-90mm bore range, are replaced with 92mm sets, which gives the final displacement of 2180cc.

My Volkswagen "2180" engine no doubt had similar beginnings, but the end result is a bit different - the pistons are not 92mm, but 94mm. The crank stroke, likewise, instead of 82mm, is 78mm. The engine I'm working on has, in fact, a displacement of approximately 2165.

What does that mean? I'm not sure. Obviously the parts for it are different. As far as power and reliability, those depend a lot more on quality of workmanship than they do on any other factor. Bottom line, I *may* have a little more torque, or I *may* not, and at the end of the day it's still up to me to build a solid engine. 

This does cause some complications, though. The main one I've run into so far is that nobody sells cylinders for a 78mm stroke... only 69mm and 82mm. That being said, some folks sell the 82's as "78-84mm," and don't give any other dimensions. There are three possibilities, as I see them (in order of most preferable to least preferable from my point of view):

1. The cylinders are short enough for 78mm stroke, and you add shims to use them for longer strokes

2. The cylinders are long enough for 84mm stroke, and you cut them down on a metal lathe if you need shorter cylinders

3. The cylinders are somewhere in the middle, and we don't really expect you to worry about compression ratio that much.

I'll know better once they show up and I can measure them. One way or another I'll get this engine built.... but if I have to custom cut each cylinder, it'll probably cause me to wait a little longer before the next rebuild.

On a more normal note, I finally got my crankshaft ready to send out for NDT (Non-Destructive Testing). Here's the key in the slot:

Partway removed:

All the way out:

I hope to spend some time this weekend cleaning the parts I intend to reuse... we'll see if I can pull myself away from this guy long enough to get any work done.